Here at the Seal Beach Kook party are, from left:
Bruno, legendary French surfboard shaper. Me. Michael Pless, the Saint of Seal Beach. Michael, Jr., Surf instructor extraordinaire. Michael, Sr. made the cool shirts.
Read your excerpt in Spirit Magazine on the way back to Chicago from Panama City Beach. I’ve never surfed but have a collection of surf documentaries and ambitions of living in a beach-something rental shack with a hammock in the back. I loved the excerpt and can’t wait to read the book. But I have to tell you, I laughed out loud and nearly choked on my drink when I read your line about the Garden before the Fall: “Maybe, after the red heifer and the Antichrist and a Great Fire, it will be so again.” Clearly we have passed through similar circles (not to mention similar sermons and conferences – I sat through a whole conference on the red heifer once), and I bless you for being able to apply it with such good humor.
Thanks, Jennifer, for your note–and for laughing out loud!
Thanks, Jennifer! May all your waves be glassy…(That’s a figurative blessing for non-surfers.) Peter
First of all let me tell you straight: I’m a KOOK and I love it!
I was once looking for a nice book on surfing on amazon and your book came up. I read some reviews and decided to get it. I live in Brussels, Belgium (not really a surf place is it?) and it wasn’t easy to find your book here in Europe. I had to order it and it finally arrived after a month.
I read a few chapters and I love it. I laughed and cried, I read some passages several times….it’s making me happy! I have been thinking for the past 3 or 4 months to do a similar thing you did and now reading your book I’m pretty sure I’ll do it!
Thanks a lot “dude”!
Hey, Thanks Filippo! Surf on! Peter
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