Coffee and apple fritter in the Seal Beach pier parking lot with the Saint and crew under a thick, gray overcast, very relaxing, then suited up, grabbed the beautiful new Takayama hibiscus red 9-0 longboard, tucked it under my arm and walked the wet sand all the way up the beach, past three lifeguard towers, while the willets and sandpipers stutter-legged over the low tide- flat, pecking for whatever they eat for breakfast. So peaceful. I felt so happy. Surfed the jetties at the river (Ray Bay, ton of sting rays–I didn’t put my feet down once), caught ride after ride, some pretty long. Just a few guys out there, all mellow, talking, trading waves. Love the new, old board. Tomorrow reading in Laguna Beach, then up the coast to Santa Barbara and northward. Gonna keep the rental SUV for this part of the trip so I can keep the board with me and surf every day.